March 2010 Wine Club Selections

Exploring the Valleys of France Do you love the world's most popular grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir? Me too. This month is not about that. We've got one month of winter left here, and I'm turning to the Valleys of France (and their fantastic 2007 vintage) to get us through it. We may not look to the Valleys as often as we should. Shame on us. Bordeaux and Burgundy make some fantastic wines, to be sure, but what is life without a little variety? Without a little spice? The Valleys of France, particularly the Rhone and the Loire, produce a variety of gems from crisp and floral white grapes like Muscadet and Sauvignon Blanc, and reds from spicy and heady grapes like Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. Chateauneuf-du-Pape, an appellation within the Rhone Valley where up to thirteen different varietals are approved for their red blends, is one of my personal favorites ... where else do you find that kind of freedom and creativity in blending? Meanwhile the Loire, which is unfortunately often overlooked and misunderstood, presents a real opportunity for off-the-beaten-path discovery. What's that you say? Never tried a biodynamic mineral-laden Muscadet or a crisp Pouilly Fume? Glad you've joined us this month, then. Buckle up.

2008 Joseph Landron Amphibolite Nature Muscadet Sevre et Maine Grape variety: Muscadet Region: Loire Valley, France Food pairing: Pan-roasted Trout with Lemon I was tempted to save this wine for April's Club selections, as it has a fantastic track record of organic and biodynamic certification to go with next month's "Green" theme, but to miss out on covering a classic Muscadet from the Loire Valley in our "Valleys of France" month would be unfortunate. Jo Landron, the second-generation proprietor and winemaker for this wine, seems the epitome of a Loire vigneron. Sporting a magnificent mustache, he gives most of the credit for his wine's character to the Amphibolite rocks (you know, the metamorphic ones composed mainly of hornblende and plagioclase feldspars) that dominate his vineyard landscape. Indeed, the defining nature of this wine is laser-like acidity and a clean, pure minerality. Sip with a plate of raw oysters or use the acidity to cut through buttery dishes. Much more so a palate cleanser than a mouthful of rocks, no? More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/12464.html 2007 Cuvee du Vatican Cotes du Rhone Villages Grape variety: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault Region: Cotes du Rhone Villages, Rhone Valley, France Food pairing: Cassoulet The Diffonty clan has all the pedigree of a Rhone winemaking family. Since 1673 they've held land in the Chateauneuf-du-Papes and Cotes du Rhone Villages appellations, growing grapevines as well as olive and cherry trees. Over the years they focused more and more on wine grapes, increasing their plantings of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault until they had a combined 37 hectares. Ten of these hectares are in the Cotes du Rhone Villages appellation, where they make their Cuvee du Vatican Cotes du Rhone Villages. Carrying bright flashy red fruit, it's exactly what everyone loves about the accessible 2007 vintage in the Rhone. And where did the name originate? The current winery's owner was the mayor of Chateauneuf-du-Pape for thirty years. In 1958, the Cuvee du Vatican trademark was created and blessed by the Pope. Pays to know people. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/12360.html

2008 Domaine Chauveau Pouilly Fume "Les Croqloups" Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc Region: Pouilly Fume, Loire Valley, France Food pairing: Soupe au Pistou (see recipe) or Crottin de Chavignol (French goat cheese) Pouilly Fume is an appellation for dry Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley. The Fume in its name comes from the smoky mineral character for which their wines are known. This particular Pouilly Fume called "Les Croqloups" is produced from 40-45 year-old vines that are planted on white and grey clay soils which contain tiny pieces of flint. This gives the wine its signature "gunflint" smoky mineral aromas. Whether you pick up on the particular sort of minerality or not, you will certainly notice the crisp, clean acidity achieved by resting the wine on its lees for 12 months in stainless steel tanks before the wine is released. Try this bottling with the included simple country recipe for Soupe au Pistou, or with the local specialty cheese Crottin de Chavignol. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/10943.html 2007 Domaine du Grand Bourjassot Cuvee Cecile Gigondas Grape variety: Grenache, Syrah Region: Gigondas, Rhone Valley, France Food pairing: Roasted Chicken with Rosemary When it comes to the Rhone Valley, it seems Chateauneuf-du-Pape garners all the credit for making the most sought-after wines for cellaring, while the Cotes-du-Rhone appellation gets all the credit for turning out the amazing-value wines that are perfect for drinking upon release. But good Gigondas, right in the middle of the two in price and ageability, shouldn't be overlooked. Very little of this wine makes it onto US shelves, but that didn't stop Mr. Parker from noticing, calling the previous vintage "gorgeous...among the best wines I tasted...rich, textured, pure and stylish; a beauty to drink over the next 7-8 years." The 2007 is showing even richer, brighter fruit, with flashy sweet cherry notes underscored by forest and floral tones. A real gem from this fantastic vintage. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/60039.html

2007 Domaine Galevan Chateauneuf-du-Pape Grape Variety: Grenache, Mourvedre Region: Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone Valley, France Food pairing: Pot au Feu Domaine Galevan's proprietor Coralie Gourmarre took over for her parents in 1995, a whopping 9th generation of vignerons in her family. While most of her production during the highly touted 2007 vintage was produced under the Cotes du Rhone appellation, she does hold 5 acres in Chateauneuf-du-Pape for their paramount bottling. Her wine is 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, aged in oak for about a year before release. Parker awarded the effort 91 points (amidst so many other Rhone bottlings clamoring for attention in this highly visible vintage), noting, "a sweet perfume of ground pepper, soy, plum fig, and oodles of black raspberry and black cherry fruit. Full-bodied, lush, pure, and beautifully textured, it should drink well young and keep for 12-15 more years." Flashy if you choose to drink it now, graceful down the road...you can't go wrong here. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/09962.html 2006 Pierre Usseglio et Fils Chateauneuf-du-Pape Grape variety: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre Region: Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone Valley, France Food pairing: Rack of Lamb with Boysenberry Sauce This month we have an opportunity to show the members of the Cellar Club just how great Chateauneuf-du-Papes can vary between producers and vintages. While the Domaine Galevan is from the much-heralded 2007 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Usseglio is made from the fruits of 2006, a year less-touted than the one it preceded, but what it lacks in noise it more than makes up for in quiet, smooth drinkability. Leave it to a small family-run producer to do it. Transplanted from Italy to Chateauneuf in 1931, the family began producing their French wines in 1948. Today they own 22 hectares of vines ranging from 30-60 years old. The blend is 75% Grenache and the balance Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre, and the marriage of wild fruit and savory "garrigue" notes is classically characteristic of Chateuneuf-du-Pape. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/12486.html

2007 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Grape variety: Grenache, Syrah Region: Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone Valley France Food pairing: Duck Confit over Lentils March's selections should be a real treat for our Premiere Club members, as we managed to fight off the crowds and stash away a few bottles of coveted 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Papes just for you. The buzz started early on this notable vintage prompting our French buyers to pay a special visit to the Rhone Valley when they first heard how good the wines were shaping up to be, and reached a deafening level when the reviewers jumped on board hailing it as a momentous vintage for Chateauneuf-du-Papes in particular. Since then, it's been all our head French wine buyer could do to keep the top (and even lesser-known) bottlings of the vintage in stock on our shelves! The Domaine de la Vieille Julienne bottling is a particularly special one, already accessible for drinking but anticipated to age beautifully for two decades to come. Robert Parker awarded it 95 points, pointing out, "a great texture, and a gorgeous nose of boysenberries, blueberries, blackberries, acacia flowers, licorice and incense. There is a wonderful freshness ad vibrancy (because of the good acids), as well as a terrific finish." Enjoy now through 2030. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/11478.html 2007 M. Chapoutier Croix de Bois Chateauneuf du Pape Grape Variety: Grenache Region: Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone Valley, France Food pairing: Slow-roasted leg of lamb What's not to love about M. Chapoutier in any vintage? The packaging is gorgeous, a perfect marriage of Old World style (traditional Chateauneuf raised crest on the glass, textured paper, Latin insignia and wax-dipped seal) and modern ingenuity (they're pioneers in the industry, putting brail on the front label). But we're well aware it's what's inside that counts, just as your second-grade teacher told you, and what's inside is equally impressive indeed. Though the standards of the Chateauneuf appellation allow for up to 13 grapes in the blend (Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre usually dominating), Chapoutier opts for pure, 100% unadulterated Grenache, hand-picked, fermented in concrete, and aged in vats for 12-16 months before blending and bottling. Even in less-than-stellar vintages, Parker tends to score this wine high and speaks of ageability for 10-15 years or more. But it was in the 2007 vintage that Parker finally proclaimed, "the superb 2007 Croix de Bois may turn out to be the finest example from this vineyard yet produced...The wine boasts extraordinary notes of black pepper, lavender, sweet black currants, kirsch, and hints of tapenade as well as black raspberries. Full-bodied with flavors of grilled meat, a superb texture, sweet tannin and a 50+ second finish, it should drink well for 20+ years." More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/12109.html