February 2010 Wine Club Selections

Spain, Old and New If you're at all familiar with Spain itself (and not just their wines), you know that it's a country where tradition and modern innovation collide in a wonderfully eclectic way. Gastronomically, they're known to be on the cutting edge right now, with chefs like Ferran Adria concocting crazy molecular creations that dance on the fine line between science experiments and cuisine. And yet, at the core of their food experience, traditional tapas bars and basic regional ingredients still dominate the daily scene. Likewise, winemaking in Spain is a fun tug-of-war between tradition and experimentation. We have the traditional, established winemakers of Rioja sticking to the strict and time-tested DO standards of indigenous grapes and long ageing, while just a vineyard or two away we may have a young winemaker playing with amped up Cabernet or putting a new spin on traditional Tempranillo. We approached this month's selections with a similar spirit of experimentation, while still giving a nod to the traditions that bring us ageworthy Spanish wines. We think you'll have fun trying something old and something new, so to speak, and seeing just which "spirit of Spain" is more your style. Enjoy!

2007 Telmo Rodriguez Gaba Do Xil Grape variety: Godello Region: Valdeorras, Spain Food pairing: Grilled fresh sardines on toast Telmo Rodriguez has led what many would consider to be a charmed life. He grew up on the historic Remelluri estate in Rioja, then went on to study viticulture and oenology at the University of Bordeaux before returning to Spain to make wines of his own. Upon his return, Rodriguez decided that he wanted to focus on the lesser-known regions and reviving the native grape varietals that make his home country special. So he became one of the first to make notable wines in Alicante, Toro, and Cigales. In 2004, he set his sights on the largely-overlooked region of Galicia and the native Godello grape. He chose a sight with Roman terraces in Valdeorras and got to work, farming his grapes biodynamically, to make this round, floral wine. Light to medium bodied, it carries notes of stone fruit and noticeable minerality, and a pleasantly bitter floral note that hints at chamomile and lemon zest. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/10569.html 2005 Bellum Providencia Grape variety: Mourvedre Region: Yecla, Spain Food pairing: Brined pork chops stuffed with Spanish green olives Bellum Providencia is made by Monastrell fanatics Emili Esteve (winemaker) and Araceli Gonzalez (vineyard manager), who tend old vines ranging in age from 60-90 years on the steep limestone and clay slopes of Yecla. Monastrell has faced a few obstacles in becoming a household name. For starters, it goes by three different names, depending on the wine region in which it's grown. (Monastrell/Mourvedre/Mataro). To further complicate things, it's a slightly finicky grape to grow. But the reward for those who tough it out is a phenomenally unique wine: thick purple juice that's, dark, tannic and savory. The most often used descriptor is the French term "animale", which conveys a meaty gaminess punctuated by an herbal sage-like note. Other flavors and aromas to be found are blackberries, leather, and spices like clove, nutmeg and anise. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/73313.html

2008 Esencia Divina Albarino Grape variety: Albarino Region: Rias Baixas, Spain Food pairing: Spicy garlic shrimp As Spain has experienced a Renaissance in quality wine production over the past decade or so, appellations have been reformed and redefined. In 1998 the Val do Salnes sub-region was added to the Rias Baixas D.O., a sign of increasing quality and recognition. Enrique Pineiro took the opportunity to focus his winery, Adegas Gran Vinum, on producing great Albarino, the local white grape that is known to ripen well in this cool corner of Spain. The aromas are what pulled us into this wine to begin with: full of floral notes, tangerine, and hints of spice. But it's the tangy acidity that the wine retains that may be the most marked characteristic of Esencia Divina. With a mouth-watering zip and a clean citrusy finish, it's the perfect palate-cleansing compliment to aperitifs, oily foods, and garlic-inflected foods. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/12179.html 2005 Telmo Rodriguez Gago Toro Grape variety: Tempranillo Region: Toro, Spain Food pairing: Lamb chops grilled with Spanish Olive Oil This is the second selection in this month's lineup from maverick Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodriguez. Along with a few other notable winemakers he rediscovered, modernized, and elevated the production of Tinto de Toro (the local clone of Tempranillo) from decades-old bush-trained vineyards. Aged in a combination of traditional foudres and French barriques for about a year, this wine gains some serious heft on the palate while retaining a dose of rich ripe fruit. Wine Enthusiast called it a "high-octane wine"; we think that it represents the more modern style of Spanish winemaking well, offering a weight and an opulence reminiscent of California Cabernet or Syrah. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/12269.html

2005 Clos Martinet "Martinet Bru" Priorat Grape Variety: Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Carignan Region: Priorat, Spain Food pairing: Lamb sliders with sautéed mushrooms Though the Trapiche winery is probably best known for value-priced Argentine wines, their single-vineyard Malbecs have really become the stars of their portfolio. The project was designed as a tribute to their independent grape growers and an exhibition of how the character of the Malbec grape can vary at different altitudes and terroirs within Mendoza. Each year, the Trapiche winemaking team chooses the best three Malbec lots of the harvest and honors them with their own single-vineyard bottlings. In the great 2006 vintage, growers Cristina and Bibiana Coletto impressed the winemakers and critics alike with the fresh, licorice and fig-laden flavors of their Malbec grown in the El Peral, Tupungato sub-appellation of Mendoza. Juicy, ample and balanced with both acidity and spice, this should drink well now through 2012 or longer. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/12285.html 2007 Psi Ribera Del Duero Grape variety: Tempranillo Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain Food pairing: Sautéed potatoes with chorizo Peter Sissek is probably best known for making a little cult wine they call Pingus: a perennial 99-100 pointer that has become famously pricey and sought-after. And he hasn't taken the success for granted. So in a spirit that I greatly admire, he's decided that for his next project it was time to give a little back to the right people: the growers. Sissek is a student of Rudolf Steiner, the founder of biodynamic viticulture, and believes firmly in the important role healthy farming plays in winemaking. He knew that the Ribera del Duero had enormous potential, as evidenced by powerful wineries like Vega Sicilia, but knew that in order for that potential to be truly realized, he needed to form a sort of growers cooperative in which farmers were finally paid well for throwing out the chemicals and taking ownership for the quality of their grapes. Many have called the idea Utopian, but it's working. And the wild fruit and floral notes of his 100% Tinto Fino is our proof. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/12242.html

2006 Pintia Toro Grape variety: Tempranillo Region: Toro, Spain Food pairing: Aged Manchego cheese We love a good juicy secret, especially when it leads to a juicy new wine. Amongst those in the Spanish wine community, it's been no secret that the established Spanish winery Vega Sicilia had been looking to get their hands on some of the best land in Toro, the appellation many see as "the next big thing" in Spanish wines. Around 1997, they began acquiring some top vineyard sights in the hot, rugged territory along the Portuguese border and experimenting with vinification techniques. The wine they were after: a great expression of Tinta del Toro, the "superior" local clone of Tempranillo. They deemed the 2001 vintage the first worthy of release, and the Pintia name was born. Aged one year in new oak (French and American), it's a spicier, bolder take on the Vega Sicilia style. The 2006 vintage was a very good one for Pintia, earning scores of 92 points from The Wine Advocate and 93 from International Wine Cellar. The Wine Advocate found a complex bouquet of wood smoke, forest floor, mushroom, incense and blackberry (all forestial goodies that I personally love to find in wines), while Tanzer noted "sexy, expressive aromas of red and dark berries, incense, Asian spices and cola" all followed by flavors of "clove, sassafras, and a building spiciness on the finish." More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/12199.html 2005 Clos Figueres Priorat Grape Variety: Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon Region: Priorat, Spain Food pairing: Fideo noodle paella On steep terraces overlooking the Montsant river valley, just outside the village of Gratallops in the heart of the Priorat D.O.C., lies a chunk of land valued, frankly, for its schist. Classically referred to as "llicorella," this type of soil is what has made the Priorat region famous among top Spanish appellations. Planted in this schist soil are about 2500 old Grenache and Carignan vines (and a few odd Syrah, Mourvedre and Cabernet) owned by Christopher Cannan and tended by the experienced efforts of Rene Barbier of Clos Mogador. The duo has only been 10 years at work with these vines, but already their microvinified bottlings have earned top scores from the critics. In the stellar 2005 vintage, The Wine Advocate awarded Clos Figueres with 96 points, noting that the opaque purple wine offers up "a complex and expressive perfume of smoky oak, pencil lead, mineral, spice box" and a multitude of black fruits. Dense, opulent, ripe and hedonistic are all words used for this massively rich and yet still elegant wine. Should drink well now through 2015, perhaps longer. More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/12198.html