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June 2009 Wine Club Selections
Wines on the Barbie

There's nothing wrong with a delicate Burgundy or a subtle Pinot Gris, but once summer hits in full swing, there's one thing on my mind every Friday around five o'clock: barbecue. And as barbecue is all about big and rich and tangy and spicy flavors, it takes an equally big and rich and tangy and spicy wine to stand up to it all. No one (and I mean no one) seems to know this better than the Aussies and the Kiwis.

Whether you're throwing some shrimp or beef on the barbie, serving up sticky-sweet ribs or zesty citrus-marinated fish, nobody makes a better quaff to go along with it than the folks down under. In New Zealand, the whites are crisp and zesty with flavors that remind you of fresh-cut grass and squeezes of orange and lime. Perfect for sipping by the pool (or the sprinkler), on the hottest of hot June evenings.

Meanwhile the reds from South Australia, in all their sun-baked glory, pack a jammy extracted punch that you seldom find elsewhere in the world ... and that stand up to some Kansas City-style ribs like nothing else.

So fire up that grill; throw on some swordfish and some steaks and some corn on the cob. Soak up every bit of that sun while it's here, because before you know it, summer will be almost over...and those bottles of Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc will be long gone.

Vintner Selections

2008 Arona Sauvignon Blanc
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
Food pairing: Red snapper with Thai green curry

After a rather long and drab winter, we're due for a summer full of color, don't you think? Fittingly, Arona is a Maori girl's name meaning "colorful." Not a bad start. Crack that bottle open, and you'll find just as much vibrant character within.

Bright, approachable, exuberant, and clean, this wine has been said to mirror its origin, the unspoiled South Island of New Zealand.

Never been there myself, but if the whole place happens to smell like passion fruit, nectarine, pineapple and just a little fresh cut grass, I'm willing to board the plane tomorrow.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/new_zealand/09433.html

2007 Renegades Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Clare Valley, Australia
Food pairing: Burgers on foccacia with spinach, tomatoes, rocket and onions

Justin Ardill is an MD Cardiologist, winemaker, and proprietor of Reilly's wines in the Clare Valley, Australia. (So if anyone's invested in the benefits of red wine for the heart, it's this guy.) When he's not jump-starting ventricles or making Shiraz and Cab for his own label, he's crafting this easy-drinking bottling under the "Renegades" brand.

What we like about it is that the higher altitude and cool nights in Reilly's vineyards allow for classic Cabernet structure ... not an Aussie Cabernet that's trying to be Shiraz. Just the right interplay between ripe, dark berry fruit and tannins makes this Cabernet Sauvignon just right for everyday steak and burger fare.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/08227.html

Reserve Selections

2008 Momo Sauvignon Blanc
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: New Zealand
Food pairing: Pesto-marinated shrimp on the barbie

We tasted this new find in early March this year, prior to any press, and were pleasantly surprised. Admirably round in style with ripe citrus fruits, bright acidity, and not overtly herbaceous, as we find some New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs to be...this was going to be a hit. So seeing the summer months on the horizon, we bought what we could on the spot and set some aside for the June Wine Club.

As it often happens, we were not the only ones that were impressed by the Momo. It appeared in the April 30th issue of Wine Spectator and was rated 90 points. A popular national restaurant chain jumped on board, pouring it by the glass, and suddenly only a limited amount was available. We thanked our lucky stars that we had already set some aside for you just in time. The perfect quaff as the mercury rises, we think you'll enjoy the grapefruit, tangerine and green melon flavors and the kicky, juicy finish.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/new_zealand/08842.html

2008 Martinborough Vineyard Te Tera Pinot Noir
Grape variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Martinborough, New Zealand
Food pairing: Seared Ahi tuna with tomatillo salsa

A few years back, we discovered a small vineyard called Martinborough that was producing a very good Sauvignon Blanc from the eponymous appellation in New Zealand. Te Tera Sauvignon Blanc became a staple on our shelves, but it was only this year that the quality of their Pinot Noir came to our attention.

Perhaps it was the blessing of a very good growing season, or the able hands of winemaker Paul Mason, but whatever the cause, we've found Martinborough's 2008 Te Tera Pinot Noir to be a fantastic example of what New Zealand Pinot can be: at once light and silky, but also carrying deep chocolate and plum flavors that make it rich without heaviness. Ever humble, the winery gives much of the credit to the mercy of Mother Nature in this vintage. Excellent winter soil moisture combined with a very settled spring (to give us) some of the best flowering conditions we've ever seen. Glorious summer weather... minimal rainfall ... a dream season overall.If only Mother Nature were this kind all the time.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/new_zealand/09131.html

Cellar Selections

2006 Oliverhill Clarendon Shiraz
Grape Variety: Shiraz
Region: McLaren Vale, Australia
Food pairing: Grilled duck breasts with blueberry-sage sauce

To all of us a half a world away from the Australian continent, this country often seems like a "big production" place, where rivers of critter wines must flow for miles on end. Walking past the case-stacks of our big-name Aussie brands, we often forget that Australia has its little guys too. And these little guys are making some truly unique, hand-selected and hand-crafted wines. In McLaren Vale, there is a stretch of dirt along Seaview Road along which some of the best fruit in the continent is grown. This fruit makes it into the likes of Penfolds Grange and Rosemount's Balmoral, among others, and right smack in the middle of all of this is a tiny winery called Oliverhill.

Here, the grapes are cropped back to only two tons per acre before they're harvested, fermented, and aged in 20% new oak for 16 months. The resulting wine strikes a balance between smoky, earthy flavors and black and blue berry fruits with a nice structure that should allow it to age well for at least five or six years to come.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/67844.html

2006 John Duval Plexus
Grape variety: Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvedre
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Food pairing: Grilled kebabs of smoked bacon-wrapped scallops and figs

Australia, admittedly, makes some fantastic smack-you-across-the-face style Shiraz. Thankfully, however, that's not the only game in town. John Duval manages to reign it all in a little with their Plexus blend of Shiraz, Grenache, and Mourvedre from various regions within the Barossa Valley, creating a wine that's refreshingly multi-dimensional. All three grapes get to shine here: the bold Shiraz that makes the base of the wine, the old bush vine Grenache and the even older (some vines topping out at a century) Mourvedre.

Critic Josh Raynolds said of the previous vintage, "I love the interplay of sweet, juicy fruit, supple tannins and understated oak. Finishes with the clarity, complexity and persistence of wines that cost three times the price. One of the greatest values in Australian wine today." The wine lived up to the rep again this year, when Raynolds described it as "Sappy and fresh, with vivid raspberry, cherry and smoky mineral flavors finishing clean, brisk and juicy."

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/75298.html

Premiere Collection

2007 Mitolo Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon
Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: McLaren Vale, Australia
Food pairing: Good artisan sausage grilled with bell peppers

The powers that be at Mitolo like to use the names of their wines to pay homage to something special. It seems to be a growing trend among winemakers to let the name of the wine speak for more than just berry flavors and well-integrated tannins. Serpico, as some may already know, was a New York City police officer who exposed a great deal of corruption within his own force during his era. What on Earth does this have to do with wine?

In the most diplomatic terms possible, the folks at Mitolo say that the name of this wine was brought about because, "With Mitolo Serpico we aim to step outside our peers and redefine the accepted style of Australian wine." Apparently a bit tired of the status quo in the Aussie wine world, they decided to try something a little different. So for their Serpico Cabernet, they've borrowed the method of partially drying the grapes from Amarone, and created something entirely different than most of their neighbors. After drying and fermentation, the wine is aged in 100% new French oak to balance those ripe, raisiny berry flavors with a little toasty tannin and spice. It's intense, unique; the kind of wine that would make our Serpico proud.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/09716.html

2005 Greenock Creek Alice's Shiraz
Grape Variety: Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Food pairing: Grilled dry-aged rib-eye steak

These days, it may seem that 96 point Barossa Shiraz is about as rare as a wallaby in the same parts. (Though I have to admit I have absolutely no idea how rare a Barossa wallaby really is.) But should you find yourself stumbling across the Barossa Valley looking for a wallaby, chances are you'd trip over a high-scoring Shiraz or two along the way. There may or may not be a river of it. We can neither confirm nor deny.

That doesn't mean, however, that Greenock Creek is just another high-scoring Shiraz in a sea of such wine. On the contrary, Greenock is quite special in its own right. Owned by Michael and Annabelle Waugh, this winery, as Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate puts it, "remains one of South Australia's most iconic wineries. Start with great terroir, add in old vine material and meticulous winemaking, and end with extraordinary results." Certainly sounds like a recipe for success. The 2005 Shiraz that they lovingly named "Alice's" spent 28 months in seasoned American oak hogsheads rather than the more typically favored French Oak barriques, lending a spicier, cigar-box character to the already meaty old-vine grapes. Layers of blueberry, smoke, game and truffle made this wine what is, and not surprisingly, earned it 96 points from the Wine Advocate.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/72553.html


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